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How to Rejuvenate an Old African Violet
If properly grown an African Violet can last forever. The plant can constantly be rejuvenated over and over again and there is no limit to its life span. It is recommended that standard sized violets be repotted every six to nine months; miniatures and semi-miniature, every three to four months.
The first step in rejuvenating is to remove the plant from the pot. Remove any drooping or dead leaves as well as any blossoms. Check the plant for symmetry. The plant should have leaves radiating out from the central core like the spokes on a bicycle. Also remove any leaves on the bottom rows that are smaller than the leaves above them.
Now inspect the root ball. Roots should be light colored and firm to the touch. Remove any dead or mushy rotting roots.
Remember to scrape the core and remove any dried calluses or bumps where the leaves were removed. This usually creates a neck and makes it seem like you have a violet tree. If the plant is too tall for the pot, cut off a section of the root ball (no more than 1/3) and lower the plant into the pot. The plant is put into a clean pot and covered with damp mix so the bottom of the leaves are even with the rim of the pot. The rule of thumb for potting up or down is that the diameter of the plant should be more than three times the size of the rim of the pot before it is potted. It may even have to be potted into a smaller pot if many of the leaves have been removed. When potting, use a light potting mix designed for African violets with some Perlite added. Do not pack the mix tightly around the plant. The roots need air spaces to grow.
There may be times when it is impossible to lower the plant enough to retain some of the root ball. You may have to remove the root ball entirely. If this drastic method is necessary, take a deep breath and cut the root ball completely off with a sharp knife. Make sure the neck has been scraped and dried calluses and remainders of leaves are removed. Put your dampened potting mix into a pot and tap the pot on the table lightly to compress it a bit. Next, make a hole with a pencil, large enough to insert the main stem of the plant.
Place the pot and plant into a clear plastic bag, inflate it and seal the bag tightly with a twist tie, creating a miniature greenhouse. Put it in a bright but not sunny location, check it weekly to see that it has not dried out or has too much condensation. You may have to add a bit of water or open the bag for an hour or so to let some moisture evaporate. Within a few weeks roots will have developed and the plant will start growing once again. Gradually open the bag for a few days or a week to let the plant become accustomed to the room conditions and then move it to your growing area. You can follow the same procedure with a sucker you have removed from a plant.
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All About Foliar Feeding
By Sharon Rosenzweig
What is Foliar Feeding?
Foliar feeding is the application of fertilizer to the leaves of plants rather than to the roots. Foliar feeding can be a powerful stimulant to plant growth as leaves take up to 95% of the nutrients in the fertilizer. Root feeding takes up much less.
Why Foliar Feed?
There are many instances when foliar feeding is very beneficial:
- To perk up wilted or damaged plants whose roots are in poor condition
- When variegated plants are too white, foliar feeding with fish emulsion or other high nitrogen fertilizer will “green up” the leaves
- For newly rooted leaves, foliar feeding helps in the development of baby plants. Baby plants have little or no root system, so foliar feeding provides nutrients to help build a strong root system.
- Show plants may also benefit with the extra boost foliar feeding provides
How to Foliar Feed
Select a fertilizer that is recommended for foliar feeding. Use 1/8 to ¼ tsp. to a gallon of hot water. Your spray bottle should deliver a fine, even spray. Mist the entire plant lightly, early in the morning so the leaves can dry before cooler nighttime temperatures set in. If any water accumulates in the center of the plants, blot dry with a tissue.
Do not foliar feed more often than 2 times per week and not during hot months when soil bacteria is more active.
The benefits of foliar feeding will be noticed in 2 to 3 week.
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Basic Essentials By Susan Gimblet Welcome to Basic Essentials. This column is the first in a series designed to help each of us, as growers, maximize the essential elements for producing beautiful African violets. Whether we are growing a violet just for our own enjoyment or planning to 'Grow to Show', taking a look at the individual components is always a good idea. We have all probably heard laments about how difficult it is to grow African violets; "it won't bloom," "my violets always die," "I watered too much/too little," and so forth. In reality, African violets are very adaptable to most environments, which have made them one of the most popular house plants. Because the African violet is so adaptable, it can be grown in different ways by different growers, with equal success. I remember when I was first growing violets, I would become frustrated when asking questions about growing them. Everyone had a different tip or suggestion and frequently these tips would contradict each other or offer too many alternatives. For example, one grower watered from the top, another person said, “Oh no, always water from the bottom and don't get the center leaves wet.” Having said all that, there are several basic essentials that are needed to produce a beautiful African violet, but there are variables based on individual conditions. We will mention some of these variables throughout the discussion. Keep in mind that African violets are grown literally from Maine to Texas, in all different climates. Although we are going to be talking about growing within our area, each of us may have little micro climates within our homes. Let's start with a discussion of potting mixes, pots and potting techniques. Potting Mix African violets have very fine roots and require a light, airy potting mix that will provide good drainage and permit the roots to grow. The potting mix should be slightly acidic (pH of 6.5-6.7). A good potting mix is very important. If violets are not grown in the correct potting mix, the other essentials for successful growing may not matter. The terms 'potting mix', 'soil-less potting mix' and 'soil' are interchangeable for the purpose of this discussion. The one factor that they all have in common is that these mixes do not contain 'dirt'. Because African violets grow better in a light, porous mixture, a mix containing dirt would become too heavy and compact, inhibiting the roots from growing. The three primary ingredients of soil-less mixes are peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. There are many different brands of soilless mix and many different recipes. It may be necessary to try more than one mix before settling on the one that works best in your environment. Potting mixes designed for African violets may be purchased at many garden centers. Look at these mixes closely, read the label. Check that the mix contains the three primary ingredients mentioned before and note whether it contains any 'dirt'. These mixes will work, frequently they need to have additional peat moss or perlite added to lighten them. Soilless potting mix may also be found in many garden shops. In addition, there are listings of commercial suppliers in the back of the AVSA magazine, including Cape Cod Violetry, owned by Bay State members John and Barbara Cook. Finally, growers may make their own mix, following recipes published in the AVSA magazine, Pauline Bartholomew's Growing to Show, and other sources. Potting mixes do vary from brand to brand. Choosing a good quality potting mix, perhaps one that is recommended by a violet friend or club. Variable: I have found that when I bring a new plant home, whether from a club member or a commercial grower, I need to repot that plant into "my" soilless mix. "My" mix works well under my watering, temperature and light conditions. I have learned from experience (note-trial and error) that if I leave the plant in the original mix, it will not grow that well. Pots and Potting African violets may be grown in either plastic or clay pots. Clay pots, however, will dry out faster and require more frequent watering. As most growers have many African violets, less frequent watering is a plus. There are many types of plastic pots available for violets. The simplest is a squat or shallow 4" pot (which is the most frequently used size). African violets have fine, shallow roots and grow best in smaller, shallow pots. Ideally, the roots will grow and fill the shallow pot, then permitting the plant's energy to focus on producing a nice rosette of leaves. A general rule of thumb is that the diameter of a violet may be three times the diameter of the pot. Therefore, a violet in a 4" pot may grow to 12" in diameter without needing to be moved to a larger pot. So remember not to be too hasty in wanting to put the plant in a larger pot. Keep in mind those shallow roots. This does not mean that the violet should not be repotted. African violets do need to be repotted at least twice a year. Semi miniatures and miniatures may need to be done more often. Violets like to grow in a pH range of 6.2-7.0. The potting mix selected is in the pH range of 6.5-6.7, but over time, the peat moss in the potting mix will break down and make the mix too acidic, thus affecting the violet's growth. By repotting on a scheduled basis with new potting mix, this problem is eliminated. Purchased plants usually come in a 2" pot. Allow that plant to grow to at least twice the diameter of the pot before transferring into a larger pot. Some growers will move from a 2" pot to a 3" pot and then a 4" pot. I prefer to repot from a 2" directly into a 4" pot. To repot, place screening in the bottom of a clean 4" pot. Screening material may be a piece of coffee filter or any other material that is porous but will prevent the soilless mix from spilling out at the bottom. Place enough moist mix in the bottom of the 4" pot so that when a small 2" pot is placed on top of the mix, the rims are level with each other. Add additional moist mix between the two pots, pressing firmly. When the space is filled, remove the smaller pot and place the small plant in the available hole. Add additional mix as needed to stabilize the plant. Water lightly with plain water. Violets that are being repotted should be disbudded. The plants will be stressed from the repotting and their energy will be needed for root growth in the larger pot. Track repotting needs either on a calendar, with a computer or simply by dating the plant label. Enjoy your violets!! |
Why Doesn’t My Violet Bloom?
By Nancy Manozzi
There are several reasons why an African violet won’t bloom. This time of year, the answer may be simple, especially if you grow in a window. The days are short and the light is scarce, therefore too little light. Also, if the plants are too close to the window, it’s COLD! Feel the leaves and if they’re cold to the touch, it’s too cold. Either put a sheer curtain in the window, place newspaper or a towel on the sill, or move the plants a few feet back from the window. However, moving the violets further from the light source may hinder bloom even more. You can supplement light by using a table lamp, but remember, violets do need at least 8 hours of darkness daily.
How long have your violets been in the same pot in the same potting mix? If it’s over a year, they need to be repotted in fresh soil. Use a light and airy soilless potting mix which will provide good drainage. The ingredients should consist of peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. Repot annually or better yet, every 6 months, as the mix breaks down over time and may become too acidic.
Do you fertilize often enough or do you fertilize at all? Try a fertilizer recommended for African violets and use the constant feed method. Rather than try to remember when you fertilized last, feed every time you water at one quarter the recommended strength. Fill a gallon container with ¼ tsp of fertilizer and water with that every time. Once a month, use plain water to flush any build up of fertilizer salts.
Proper watering is one of the most important factors in a healthy, blooming violet. Use room temperature or tepid water and only water when the top of the soil feels slightly dry. Violets like to be slightly moist, never wet. You can water from the top or the bottom but only when needed. They do not like “wet feet” so should never sit in water for longer than it takes to drink up what’s needed. Once the top of the soil feels moist, empty any remaining water in the saucer. You may be able to tell when watering is needed by lifting the entire pot—when the pot seems light, it is probably time to water. The air quality is also an important factor.
African violets like good air circulation, 40%-50% humidity and no drafts. Fresh circulating air may be created with a fan, but shouldn’t blow directly on the plants. Keep your plants away from open windows to avoid drafts. You might open a window, very slightly, in an adjoining room for a short while, when it’s not too cold outside.
How many crowns or suckers do your single-crowned violets have? Suckers, or small leaves growing from the stem, rather than the crown, should be continually removed. Suckers will compete for space, food and moisture, and will affect the overall performance of your violet. So, keep your single-crowned plants to one crown. African violets need constant, consistent care.
Turn them every few days (or when you dust), water when dry, feed them regularly, give them enough light, pick off the old blossoms, keep the leaves clean and repot every 6-12 months. Give them the attention they deserve. If after doing all these things, your violet still doesn’t bloom, try another variety. Some plants may just not be for you! |
Growing To Show
Interested in preparing your African violets to enter in a show? Check out the guidelines in the Grow To Show Calendar, first outlined by Pauline Bartholomew in her book, "Growing to Show: How to Grow Prize WInning African Violets. | Grow To Show Calendar |
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