Bay State African Violet Society

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AV Links
 
For commercial sources of African violets and supplies:

Lyndon Lyon Greenhouse
(NY)

The Violet Barn - Home of Rob's Mini-o-lets (NY)

The Planter Depot (MA)

Cape Cod Violetry (MA) - 508-993-2386


For more infromation on African violets and related plants:

African Violet Society of America

The Gesneriad Society

Central Jersey African Violet Society

Garden State African Violet Club

Windsor African Violet Society

New York State African Violet Society


 
Some recent articles from our newsletter:
 
How to Rejuvenate an Old African Violet

If properly grown an African Violet can last forever.  The plant can constantly be rejuvenated over and over again and there is no limit to its life span.  It is recommended that standard sized violets be repotted every six to nine months; miniatures and semi-miniature, every three to four months. 

The first step in rejuvenating is to remove the plant from the pot.  Remove any drooping or dead leaves as well as any blossoms.  Check the plant for symmetry.  The plant should have leaves radiating out from the central core like the spokes on a bicycle.  Also remove any leaves on the bottom rows that are smaller than the leaves above them.  
Now inspect the root ball.  Roots should be light colored and firm to the touch.  Remove any dead or mushy rotting roots.

Remember to scrape the core and remove any dried calluses or bumps where the leaves were removed.  This usually creates a neck and makes it seem like you have a violet tree.  If the plant is too tall for the pot, cut off a section of the root ball (no more than 1/3) and lower the plant into the pot.  The plant is put into a clean pot and covered with damp mix so the bottom of the leaves are even with the rim of the pot.  The rule of thumb for potting up or down is that the diameter of the plant should be more than three times the size of the rim of the pot before it is potted.  It may even have to be potted into a smaller pot if many of the leaves have been removed.  When potting, use a light potting mix designed for African violets with some Perlite added.  Do not pack the mix tightly around the plant.  The roots need air spaces to grow.

There may be times when it is impossible to lower the plant enough to retain some of the root ball.  You may have to remove the root ball entirely.  If this drastic method is necessary, take a deep breath and cut the root ball completely off with a sharp knife.  Make sure the neck has been scraped and dried calluses and remainders of leaves are removed.  Put your dampened potting mix into a pot  and tap the pot on the table lightly to compress it a bit.  Next, make a hole with a pencil, large enough to insert the main stem of the plant. 

Place the pot and plant into a clear plastic bag, inflate it and seal the bag tightly with a twist tie, creating a miniature greenhouse.  Put it in a bright but not sunny location, check it weekly to see that it has not dried out or has too much condensation.  You may have to add a bit of water or open the bag for an hour or so to let some moisture evaporate.  Within a few weeks roots will have developed and the plant will start growing once again.  Gradually open the bag for a few days or a week to let the plant become accustomed to the room conditions and then move it to your growing area.  You can follow the same procedure with a sucker you have removed from a plant.



 

 
All About Foliar Feeding
By Sharon Rosenzweig

 
What is Foliar Feeding?
Foliar feeding is the application of fertilizer to the leaves of plants rather than to the roots.  Foliar feeding can be a powerful stimulant to plant growth as leaves take up to 95% of the nutrients in the fertilizer.  Root feeding takes up much less.
 
Why Foliar Feed?
There are many instances when foliar feeding is very beneficial:
  • To perk up wilted or damaged plants whose roots are in poor condition
  • When variegated plants are too white, foliar feeding with fish emulsion or other high nitrogen fertilizer will “green up” the leaves
  • For newly rooted leaves, foliar feeding helps in the development of baby plants.  Baby plants have little or no root system, so foliar feeding provides nutrients to help build a strong root system.
  • Show plants may also benefit with the extra boost foliar feeding provides
 How to Foliar Feed
Select a fertilizer that is recommended for foliar feeding.  Use 1/8 to ¼ tsp. to a gallon of hot water.  Your spray bottle should deliver a fine, even spray.  Mist the entire plant lightly, early in the morning so the leaves can dry before cooler nighttime temperatures set in.  If any water accumulates in the center of the plants, blot dry with a tissue.
 
Do not foliar feed more often than 2 times per week and not during hot months when soil bacteria is more active.
 
The benefits of foliar feeding will be noticed in 2 to 3 week.

 


 

Basic Essentials

By Susan Gimblet

 

Welcome to Basic Essentials. This column is the first in a series designed to help each of us, as growers, maximize the essential elements for producing beautiful African violets. Whether we are growing a violet just for our own enjoyment or planning to 'Grow to Show', taking a look at the individual components is always a good idea.

 

We have all probably heard laments about how difficult it is to grow African violets; "it won't bloom," "my violets always die," "I watered too much/too little," and so forth.

 

In reality, African violets are very adaptable to most environments, which have made them one of the most popular house plants. Because the African violet is so adaptable, it can be grown in different ways by different growers, with equal success. I remember when I was first growing violets, I would become frustrated when asking questions about growing them. Everyone had a different tip or suggestion and frequently these tips would contradict each other or offer too many alternatives. For example, one grower watered from the top, another person said, “Oh no, always water from the bottom and don't get the center leaves wet.”

 

Having said all that, there are several basic essentials that are needed to produce a beautiful African violet, but there are variables based on individual conditions. We will mention some of these variables throughout the discussion. Keep in mind that African violets are grown literally from Maine to Texas, in all different climates. Although we are going to be talking about growing within our area, each of us may have little micro climates within our homes.

 

Let's start with a discussion of potting mixes, pots and potting techniques.

 

Potting Mix

African violets have very fine roots and require a light, airy potting mix that will provide good drainage and permit the roots to grow. The potting mix should be slightly acidic (pH of 6.5-6.7). A good potting mix is very important. If violets are not grown in the correct potting mix, the other essentials for successful growing may not matter.

 

The terms 'potting mix', 'soil-less potting mix' and 'soil' are interchangeable for the purpose of this discussion. The one factor that they all have in common is that these mixes do not contain 'dirt'. Because African violets grow better in a light, porous mixture, a mix containing dirt would become too heavy and compact, inhibiting the roots from growing. The three primary ingredients of soil-less mixes are peat moss, perlite and vermiculite.

 

There are many different brands of soilless mix and many different recipes. It may be necessary to try more than one mix before settling on the one that works best in your environment. Potting mixes designed for African violets may be purchased at many garden centers. Look at these mixes closely, read the label. Check that the mix contains the three primary ingredients mentioned before and note whether it contains any 'dirt'. These mixes will work, frequently they need to have additional peat moss or perlite added to lighten them.

 

Soilless potting mix may also be found in many garden shops. In addition, there are listings of commercial suppliers in the back of the AVSA magazine, including Cape Cod Violetry, owned by Bay State members John and Barbara Cook. Finally, growers may make their own mix, following recipes published in the AVSA magazine, Pauline Bartholomew's Growing to Show, and other sources.  Potting mixes do vary from brand to brand. Choosing a good quality potting mix, perhaps one that is recommended  by a violet friend or club.

 

Variable: I have found that when I bring a new plant home, whether from a club member or a commercial grower, I need to repot that plant into "my" soilless mix. "My" mix works well under my watering, temperature and light conditions. I have learned from experience (note-trial and error) that if I leave the plant in the original mix, it will not grow that well.

 

Pots and Potting

African violets may be grown in either plastic or clay pots. Clay pots, however, will dry out faster and require more frequent watering. As most growers have many African violets, less frequent watering is a plus. There are many types of plastic pots available for violets. The simplest is a squat or shallow 4" pot (which is the most frequently used size). African violets have fine, shallow roots and grow best in smaller, shallow pots. Ideally, the roots will grow and fill the shallow pot, then permitting the plant's energy to focus on producing a nice rosette of leaves.

 

A general rule of thumb is that the diameter of a violet may be three times the diameter of the pot. Therefore, a violet in a 4" pot may grow to 12" in diameter without needing to be moved to a larger pot. So remember not to be too hasty in wanting to put the plant in a larger pot. Keep in mind those shallow roots.

 

This does not mean that the violet should not be repotted. African violets do need to be repotted at least twice a year. Semi miniatures and miniatures may need to be done more often. Violets like to grow in a pH range of 6.2-7.0. The potting mix selected is in the pH range of 6.5-6.7, but over time, the peat moss in the potting mix will break down and make the mix too acidic, thus affecting the violet's growth. By repotting on a scheduled basis with new potting mix, this problem is eliminated.

 

Purchased plants usually come in a 2" pot. Allow that plant to grow to at least twice the diameter of the pot before transferring into a larger pot. Some growers will move from a 2" pot to a 3" pot and then a 4" pot. I prefer to repot from a 2" directly into a 4" pot.

 

To repot, place screening in the bottom of a clean 4" pot. Screening material may be a piece of coffee filter or any other material that is porous but will prevent the soilless mix from spilling out at the bottom. Place enough moist mix in the bottom of the 4" pot so that when a small 2" pot is placed on top of the mix, the rims are level with each other. Add additional moist mix between the two pots, pressing firmly. When the space is filled, remove the smaller pot and place the small plant in the available hole. Add additional mix as needed to stabilize the plant. Water lightly with plain water.

 

Violets that are being repotted should be disbudded. The plants will be stressed from the repotting and their energy will be needed for root growth in the larger pot.

 

Track repotting needs either on a calendar, with a computer or simply by dating the plant label.

 

Enjoy your violets!!

 

 

 

 


 
Why Doesn’t My Violet Bloom?
By Nancy Manozzi
 

There are several reasons why an African violet won’t bloom. This time of year, the answer may be simple, especially if you grow in a window. The days are short and the light is scarce, therefore too little light. Also, if the plants are too close to the window, it’s COLD! Feel the leaves and if they’re cold to the touch, it’s too cold. Either put a sheer curtain in the window, place newspaper or a towel on the sill, or move the plants a few feet back from the window. However, moving the violets further from the light source may hinder bloom even more. You can supplement light by using a table lamp, but remember, violets do need at least 8 hours of darkness daily.
 

How long have your violets been in the same pot in the same potting mix? If it’s over a year, they need to be repotted in fresh soil. Use a light and airy soilless potting mix which will provide good drainage. The ingredients should consist of peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. Repot annually or better yet, every 6 months, as the mix breaks down over time and may become too acidic.
 

Do you fertilize often enough or do you fertilize at all? Try a fertilizer recommended for African violets and use the constant feed method. Rather than try to remember when you fertilized last, feed every time you water at one quarter the recommended strength. Fill a gallon container with ¼ tsp of fertilizer and water with that every time. Once a month, use plain water to flush any build up of fertilizer salts.
 

Proper watering is one of the most important factors in a healthy, blooming violet. Use room temperature or tepid water and only water when the top of the soil feels slightly dry. Violets like to be slightly moist, never wet. You can water from the top or the bottom but only when needed. They do not like “wet feet” so should never sit in water for longer than it takes to drink up what’s needed. Once the top of the soil feels moist, empty any remaining water in the saucer. You may be able to tell when watering is needed by lifting the entire pot—when the pot seems light, it is probably time to water.
 The air quality is also an important factor.

African violets like good air circulation, 40%-50% humidity and no drafts. Fresh circulating air may be created with a fan, but shouldn’t blow directly on the plants. Keep your plants away from open windows to avoid drafts. You might open a window, very slightly, in an adjoining room for a short while, when it’s not too cold outside.
 

How many crowns or suckers do your single-crowned violets have? Suckers, or small leaves growing from the stem, rather than the crown, should be continually removed. Suckers will compete for space, food and moisture, and will affect the overall performance of your violet. So, keep your single-crowned plants to one crown.
 African violets need constant, consistent care.

Turn them every few days (or when you dust), water when dry, feed them regularly, give them enough light, pick off the old blossoms, keep the leaves clean and repot every 6-12 months. Give them the attention they deserve. If after doing all these things, your violet still doesn’t bloom, try another variety. Some plants may just not be for you!

 
Growing Tips


  1. Chimeras (plants with pinwheel flowers) cannot be propagated by rooting a leaf  because they will not bloom true.  To propagate a chimera, cut out the crown with a sharp knife or razor and root it in a light airy potting mix.  Place pot in a plastic bag to increase humidity.  The remaining plant without the crown will sprout suckers.  These suckers can be removed and rooted to produce additional new plants.

  2. If a leaf is taking forever to produce babies, shock the leaf by cutting the top1/3 off and/or slam the bottom of the pot on the counter to loosen the potting mix. 

  3. African violets perform best when the humidity in the growing area is 50% - 60%.  The effects of too low humidity are: brown tips on foliage, bud dropping and dull foliage.  You can increase the humidity by grouping plants, using pebble trays, misting the leaves with tepid water (not in the crown), or using a humidifier.
     
  4. It is possible to improve the symmetry of a plant.  If a gap shows, you can train another leaf to that position by gently moving it a millimeter or two, and holding it in place with a toothpick inserted next to the stem.  This process should be repeated gradually over days or weeks, until there is no longer a gap showing.
     
  5. African violets benefit from regular grooming to help them look their best.  You should trim off dying stems, spent blossoms and tired outer leaves.  If left to stay beyond their time, they become ideal hiding places for insects and disease spores.  Brush away dust from the leaves by using a soft bristle brush and supporting the leaf with your hand and gently brushing from the inside to outside of the plant.

  6. Several factors affect how long blooms will last on African violets.  Plants with thicker petals and blooms with green shading tend to last longer.  Also, moderate to high humidity and cooler temperatures (60 – 75 degrees) increase bloom life.

  7. If you grow miniature African violets, you often have the problem of the plants producing suckers on top of the crown.  Increasing the amount of light the minis receive often helps to control this problem.  Move the plants closer to the lights so they are at 5” to 7” away from the bulbs.

  8. For those of you who wick water, algae often grows in your reservoirs, turning the water an unsightly green. Placing a small piece of copper wire (or a penny) in the reservoirs will cut down the algae growth.

  9. If you have trouble rooting leaves or suckers in potting mix, try this method: Place a few layers of damp paper toweling in the bottom of a clear plastic deli container.  Cut leaf stems straight across instead of at an angle.  Prop them along the sides of the container.  Be sure the paper towel doesn't dry out.  Roots will form in a few weeks.

  10. African violets sometimes develop suckers.  A sucker is the beginning of a new plant which forms near the base of the plant or in the leaf axils.  Suckers should be removed while small, before they affect the symmetry of the plant.  To remove a sucker, grab it with tweezers at the base and gently pull it off.  You can also use a small knife or pick to cut it out, being careful not to damage the main plant.  If you are successful in removing the whole sucker in 1 piece, you can plant it very light potting mix and place a plastic bag over it.  Roots will develop and you will have a new plant before you know it!
     
  11. A strong root system will develop more readily on started leaves and small plants if the bottoms of the pots have a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees at all times.  You can place the pots on top of the fluorescent fixtures for added warmth.
  12. When propagating from a leaf, let the cut end of the stem dry for about 30 minutes before inserting it in the potting medium.  A callous will form and reduce the risk of pathogens entering the stem and rotting the leaf.

  13. If you live in a hot summer climate, now is not the time to order leaves or propagate. The temperatures are too hot and the risk of the leaves rotting is quite high.  Wait until the early fall to increase your collection.

  14. The planting environment of African violets will turn quite acidic as the soil-less mixes break down.  Fertilizers also play a role in the acidification process.  Look for a fertilizer that has a low “Potential Acidity” (defined as the number of lbs. of calcitic limestone needed to neutralize the acidic effect caused by the application of one ton of this fertilizer).  This information should be on the label.  The Potential Acidity of popular AV fertilizers ranges from the 100’s to the 700’s!

  15. If you are having trouble with the foliage not looking as perfect as you would like, it might be a pH problem.  If you are on a constant feed fertilization program and you wick water your plants, your planting medium will turn too acidic over time.  Leaving a fertilizer-water combination in your watering can or jug will turn very acidic in a few days and may cause the problem.  Mix up only enough fertilizer solution to water your collection and spill out the rest.

  16. If you notice a whitish-grey, fine dust on foliage, it is probably Powdery Mildew.  It is a fungus that develops in cool, humid conditions.  To treat, spray leaves with a mixture of ¼ teaspoon Lysol (in the brown bottle, found in Walmart) to a gallon of water plus 1 or 2 drops of dish liquid.  The dish liquid helps the spray stick to the leaves.  As a preventative, run a small fan to circulate air near growing area and use Lysol solution once a month.

  17. You can rejuvenate an old African violet with a long neck.  Cut off the entire root ball, leaving about 1-1/2 inches of the neck on the plant.  Gently scrape the remaining neck to expose green tissue.  Place the plant in moistened, soil-less potting mix with perlite added by burying most of the neck.  Enclose the plant in a plastic bag and tie shut with a twist tie.  Place the bag in a warm location which receives indirect light.  The neck should produce new roots in a few weeks.
     
  18. Tips for growing yellow African violets: grow cooler, with less light and less fertilizer.  To help the yellow color intensify, add Red Lava Sand to your potting mix at the rate of 1 cup of Red Lava Sand to 6 quarts of mix.
  19. African Violets need regular feeding in order to bloom.  Use a balanced fertilizer like 20-20-20 or 12-36-14 that is low in urea nitrogen.  These numbers refer to the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.  Use ¼ tsp to a gallon of water and fertilize every time you water with this dilute fertilizer solution.

  20. It's easy to start a new AV from a leaf.  Remove a leaf from the middle row of the plant.  Leaves in the outer row are too old and may not produce babies.  Cut the stem, leaving about 1".  Re-cut the end of the stem on the diagonal.  Place the leaf in a light potting mix, with lots of perlite added, at a 45 degree angle.  You will get more baby plants this way than if the leaf is placed in vertically.  Place pot in a plastic bag to increase humidity.

  21. Now that cooler weather here, remember that African violets prefer to remain in a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees.    Colder night time temperatures can cause roots to stagnate and die back.  Warmer temperatures will affect plant growth and cause to blossoms to deteriorate.

  22. Fall is a great time to repot or pot up.  Repot into the same size pot if the African violet is at its mature size and/or needs to have its neck buried or needs fresh potting mix.  Pot up to a slightly larger pot if it is expected that the plant has a greater potential for overall size or maturity.

  23. When repotting, pre-moisten the potting medium before using it.  Roots can be stressed when coming in contact with dry soil.  Pre-moistening also cuts down on dust and residue on the leaves.
  24. If you notice that the center leaves are tight and “bunchy”, they may be receiving too much fertilizer to too much light.  Use plain water (no fertilizer) for the next 3 waterings.  If too much light is the cause, reduce the number of hours under lights by 1 hour each week until plants are receiving 6-8 hours of light.  Also, move the plants to the end of the light stand.  You can also cover the tight center with a small piece of tissue or paper towel for a week. 
     
     
  25. If you see tiny bugs flying around your African violets, especially when you move the plants, it is most probably fungus gnats.  They will not harm the plants.  The best way to control an infestation is to hang an insect sticky strip near your plants.  They are odorless and non-toxic.

  26. Never fertilize a "dry plant".  Use plain water before watering with a fertilizer-water mixture.
  27. More African violet plants die from over-watering than any other reason.  To determine if your plant needs watering, lift up the pot and feel its weight.  If it feels light, it's time to water; if the pot feels heavy, wait a few days before watering - even it the top of the soil feels dry.

  28. Most people are familiar with top watering or bottom watering.  Another way to water is with capillary matting.  You can use a piece of inexpensive acrylic blanket, cut to fit in a plastic tray.  Wet the matting in the tray thoroughly and place your plants on the matting.  Use only pots with drainage holes on the bottom.  Make sure the bottom of the pots make good contact with the matting.  The plants will draw up moisture from the bottom.  It is better to use a dark color piece of matting so algae growth will not be as noticeable.

  29. Some growers add horticultural charcoal to their potting mix.  Charcoal helps to “sweeten” the soil by absorbing odors.  It helps to purify your water by filtering out chemical impurities.  The addition of charcoal also helps to keep the soil pH level stable for a longer period of time.

  30. Some African Violets need more light than others.  The supermarket varieties are hardy and grow well in window light.  Generally speaking, the darker the blossoms or leaves, the more light they require.  Pale colored blossoms and lighter green leaves take less light.  Variegated plants need more light, but cooler temperature to maintain variegation.  Place these plants in the middle of a lower shelf on your plant stand.

  31. Growing African violets is addictive.  Most growers enjoy adding new plants to their collection.  It is very important to isolate new additions for at least 2 months before placing them among your current plants.  Place the new plants far away (in another room if possible) from your other violets so as not to introduce insects or diseases.  After the isolation period, if the plants look healthy and there is no evidence of pests or disease, the new violets may be transferred to your regular growing area.

  32. During the summer, it is very tempting to open all the windows.  However, you should never open any windows near your plants to prevent outside insects from invading your African violets.  The most common insect that comes in through screens is THRIPS.  Telltale signs of a thrips infestation are pollen on flower petals and quickly fading blossoms.  If you blow gently on the blossoms you can often see thrips larvae scurrying away.   The treatment is to disbud, spray with a houseplant insecticide or hang blue sticky insect traps (thrips are attracted to the blue color).

  33. If your plant has developed a tight center, it may be due to too much light or too much fertilizer.  Move the plant to a location with less light for a week and use plain water (no fertilizer) for the next 2 waterings.  Or you can cover only the center of the plant with a small piece of tissue or paper towel for a week or until the center leaves open up a bit.

  34. Adequate light is most important for abundant bloom.  Any window with bright light, but not direct sunlight is good.  If using fluorescent lights, plants should be placed 8 to 10 inches from the top of the pot to the bottom of the light.  Plants should receive 10 to 14 hours of light a day.

  35. African Violets may be either top watered or bottom watered.  Always use tepid water.  When watering from the top, try not to get water in the center crown.  If you do, blot immediately with a tissue.  To bottom water, place water in a saucer and allow the plant to soak up as much as it can in 20 minutes.  Then drain the excess water out of the saucer.  African Violets should never sit in water because the roots may rot.

  36. African Violets need regular feeding in order to bloom.  Use a balanced fertilizer like 20-20-20 or 12-36-14 that is low in urea nitrogen.  These numbers refer to the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.  Use ¼ tsp to a gallon of water and fertilize every time you water with this dilute fertilizer solution.

  37. During the heating season, leaves tend to get dusty.  Remove dust from leaves using a small, soft brush and brush in the direction the hairs are growing.  You can also give your plants a bath in the sink by using a gently spray and warm water.  Pat the leaves dry using a paper towel, especially in the center crown.  Keep plant out of direct sun until leaves are completely dry.African Violets like to be pot bound.  The rule of thumb when repotting is the pot should be 1/3 the diameter of the plant.  If planted in a pot that is too large, blooming will not occur until the roots fill the pot.  The roots are also in danger of rotting.

  38. African Violets benefit from consistent moisture.  Plants should be kept evenly moist.  Any break in culture will result in a row of off-sized leaves.

  39. When watering African Violets, water should be at room temperature.  Water that is too cold will cause spotting on the leaves.
  40. If you have noticed insects in the root ball of your African violet and you don’t want to use pesticides, try adding a few drops of dishwashing liquid to the water and fertilizer mixture.  Many insects are killed by the soap.
  41. Some African violets need more light than others.  If growing under lights, place the following varieties in the center of the shelf: dark green foliage, blue and purple blossoms, double blossoms, boy type foliage and young seedlings.  The following varieties should be placed at the edge of the shelves: light green foliage, pink and white blossoms, variegated varieties and girl type foliage.


 

Aids and Hints in Growing Violets

   By Members of Emerald Necklace 

 

TOOL / USE

 

Watering Can with Long Spout or Turkey Baster

            To water under leaves to prevent marring and keep water from crowns.

 

Tweezers or Small Scissors

            Removal of spent blossoms, petioles and suckers.  Surgical tweezers work best because they have a long handle and curved end.  These are available at fabric stores, surgical stores and at trade shows. Cuticle scissors also work well and come in all sizes.

 

Grooming Brush

            Excellent for removing dust and soil from leaves.  Commercially available but good substitutes are

            cosmetic brushes, and less expensive, small paint brushes.  Paint brushes come in all sizes and run    

            from soft to coarse fibers.  Violet leaves are not sensitive to light brushing.      

 

Labels

            To identify potted plants or baby leaves - commercial plastic labels, small paper labels placed directly on leaves or masking tape on pots.

 

Permanent Marker

            Write on labels, e.g., “Sharpie”, permanent, ultra fine.  Anything but a permanent marker will wear off eventually.  When going to show or plant sale, cut down an address label and place on your “Sharpie” to identify as yours so it will go home with you.

                                   

Razor Blade, Box Cutter or “Xacto”Knife

            To cut leaves on diagonal for propagation.  Use care with these products.

 

2 ½” Plastic Cups

            Inexpensive pots to set leaves.  “Solo” cups with drainage holes made in bottom work best (these are getting hard to find but still available in small, independent markets.)  Cover cup with sandwich bag or place in covered tray and you have your own little greenhouse.

 

Wicking Containers

            Allows you to place a plant above water. Use imagination, e.g., plastic food containers with a hole cut in cover or cut-down soda and water bottles.

 

Wicking Material

             Provides contact between plant and wicking container.  Suggestions: 1) Nyon stockings

             (pantyhose) cut in thin strips.  As a starting point, cut in 1/8” strips and pull before using.  The

             cheaper the pantyhose the better the wicking action, fashion pantyhose with sheen do not work

             as well.  Ask family and friends to save used pantyhose.  They will be thrilled to help you with

             your hobby.  2) Yarn, and 3) String.  Both yarn and string can be separated by ply for thinner

             strips.

 

Plastic Trays with Covers

            Container for wicking many small plants. Commercially available “Perma-Nest” trays with covers are great.  Again, use your imagination.  Many discount stores have square boxes with clear covers.  “Rubbermade” makes an excellent product (15” X 22” X 6” deep) with a clear cover that is reasonably priced when on sale. These are also great to transport sales plants.  Don’t forget small shoe boxes and large pastry containers.  Plastic wrap can be used if covers are not available.

 

Wick Matting

            Liner for trays to water many plants and retain moisture.  Matting is commercially available and reasonably priced.  Acrylic blanket material also works well (cotton will rot.)  Matting will last for decades if laundered. 

 

Magnifying Glass

            Provides a close-up look to check for powdery mildew and pests.  Inexpensive, light-weight, small magnifying glasses can be found at your local pharmacy. 

 

Seam Ripper

Poke holes in “Solo” cups for drainage.  Five or six small holes will do it and 2 or 3 cups can be done at one time.

 

Fiber Glass Screen, Paper Towels or Coffee Filters

            To cover drainage holes in pots.

 

Swizzle Stick

            Great for marking the front or back of a pot to make sure that you turn plants when watering.  Swizzle sticks are also great for moving leaves when grooming.

 

Liquid Lysol with Soap

Excellent for controlling powdery mildew.  Mix just ¼ tsp. in a gallon of water and water plants or fill wicking containers.  Treat plants in late fall, whether you see powdery mildew or not.

This is a preventive measure.  In the Northeast, one treatment seems to work, but in other parts of   the country more frequent treatments might be necessary.    

 

Bleach Water

             A weak solution of bleach and water is an excellent sterilizing agent.

·      Soak dirty pots – include your “Solo” cups as well, they are stronger than they look.

·      Toss in your plastic labels, bleach eventually removes permanent ink.

·      Wash your matting material in the washing machine with a little bleach.

  Use care when using bleach, you can ruin a good outfit with one splash of bleach.

 

Plant Stands

Provide full spectrum of light using fluorescent bulbs (one cool white bulb and one Gro-Lux  in fixture is recommended.) Commercially available, but as an inexpensive alternative, “Costco” and other warehouse chains carry reasonably-priced 48” metal racks that serve as excellent plant stands and are attractive enough to be placed in a living room. These are not difficult to assemble, and the shelves can be moved up and down as needs change.  Light fixtures can be attached with “S” hooks directly to the shelves.  Add an inexpensive timer and you are set to go. 

           


Growing To Show

Interested in preparing your African violets to enter in a show?  Check out the guidelines in the Grow To Show Calendar, first outlined by Pauline Bartholomew in her book, "Growing to Show: How to Grow Prize WInning African Violets.


 

 

Grow To Show Calendar


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